Get out of my way!
Surfing...hard to think of something better than it, but its tough. The feeling you get when you step into liquid is like no other. Snowboarding, skating, skiing, wakeboarding, nothing is quite the same.
Then you got longboarders vs. shortboarders...I grew up riding single fin, 10 foot boards my entire life. I can ride short, little 1 1/2 inch thick grom riders, but they aren't as exciting to me. Fishes are fun though. I want a new 6'0...sick!
Surfing has taken off tremendously in the past 30 years. Its super popular and tons of people are learning every single day. I think its great that people get to experience the same feelings I do when I am in the lineup...but...STAY THE FUCK OUT OF MY WAY KOOK!
One of the biggest reasons (besides being a () in the cold water) is the fact that tons of kooks are out there, taking off when they shouldn't, having no control of themselves let along their boards, and just cause they own a $400 wetsuit, they think they rip. Recently a girl I know took up surfing. Now she is convinced that she is a surfer. Thats what we call a kook folks. KOOK!!
BARNEY GALORE! She was trying to tell me that the ocean water in SF is 65 degrees...it wouldn't get that warm here unless hell became earth. I am the last person that thinks he knows everything, but the ocean, surfing, any waterman activity, do you really think I don't know my shit?
I am not trying to be a smartass or an asshole, I just wish people knew where the fuck they fall into the world. If you choose to learn to surf, good on ya, just stay the fuck out of my way.
Here is some NORCAL footage to keep you going.
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
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